Sunday 31 July 2011

My day in London - "Cultural Exploits"

One of the big advantages of living in Brussels is the fact that you are in the middle of Europe - it takes just 1,5 h to go by train to Paris and a little 2 h to go by train to London. Beat that!

So, off I went with the Eurostar: you can be in London  just in time for the opening of shops and museums in a wink - and with the time difference you have even gained a full hour - leaving here at 8 am makes you arriving in London at 9 am.

My dear friend Fiona picked me up and we started with a coffee in the British Library - now rebuilt in another place than the original - I liked it inside better than outside; the space and structure inside is very good architecture indeed, the outside disappoints with a lack of ingenuity ( after all, this is a place for thought, no?) and some feeling of "homely schoolyard".

I was introduced to the London Bus System - always good to learn something new: very easy, once you get a grip - I am now a converted user of buses - you see so much more and get a feeling for the huge dimensions of this huge and beautiful city!

But then we went of to a real treat - please, go there, if you have time: The "Sir John Soane´s Museum" Lincoln´s Field nr.13., try www.soane.org  for more information.

I wonder, if all the students, trying to become successful bread-earners do have a notion of the jewel situated around the corner of the LSE?
A humble selfmade man, becoming a great architect and collector created here one of the most amazing monuments to human willpower and creativity. 
I was stunned indeed. What energy and knowledge of a lifetime to be found here - paradise for the art interested indeed.

The wow factor of the "Picture Room" with its hidden pictures, the world famous Hogarths series "A Rake´s Progress" and some wonderful Canalettos; not to talk of the 12 Piranesi I counted. Curiosities as the tomb of poor old lap-dog Fanny seen from the "Monk´s Parlour" and the description of  an opening-reception given by Soanes to celebrate his aquisition of an egyptian sarcophagus are fascinating. What a mind and what determination....

The house itself is a jewel of Regency architecture with one of the loveliest staircases I have hitherto seen in a townhouse. The staff was very kind, given to the constant flow of visitors they must have the patience of saints to explain and transmit their passion for this house and its collection day after day. Entrance is free and a nice lady at the entrance keeps the queue in good humor - there are only a restricted number of visitors to be admitted, very sensible thought I find, not only because of the damage possible, but also for the visitor to get a feeling for the place.

Next stop was Somerset house.
Had never been there and it felt on the first entrance in the courtyard like entering a huge filmset - please forgive this secularistic allusion. Lovely second impression was to see all the children playing in the fountains in the full afternoon sun - happy shrieks and bustling laughter made the place alive with a carefree feeling of holidays.

We came to have a look at the Courtauld Gallery Collection, which I had never seen but had read and heard about a lot. Not to forget the interesting minor fact that Anthony Blunt, one of the Cambridge Spies spent much time and thought in and on this collection...



Prepare for happiness - it is a small but very fine collection indeed.

Some of the most famous pictures of the world are to be seen and and enjoyed, starting with some Rubens ( especially one of his very rare landscapes!!!),  a Goya, "Mont St. Victoire" in some variations by Cézanne, some of the most famous Manets, the famous little early Picasso blue child with a dove, van Gogh and Gauguin,  one sad and beautiful Modigliani, french early 20th century painting, some Blaue Reiter ( even a Werefkin!!)  - in short: GO AND VISIT.
Can´t be too much insisted on. www.courtauld.ac.uk

What gives me great consolation in a sense of relief and hope is to see how many people of all backgrounds, ages, colours and intentions are taking advantage of the possibilities offered to them to enjoy beautiful things, to see and contemplate some of the greatest works of art in the world: There were loads of people in the British Library to see the Magna Carta, quite a queue for the excentric Soanse´s House, an intense crowd for  Somerset House. This is really a gift to mankind.
I just wished most people were better dressed... Well, one cannot have it all.

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